Little Naga baby |
We toured the Assam-Nagaland section via Jorhat, making way to Mokokchung back in Nagaland. The border expanse is beautiful with tea gardens on both sides of the highway. Road conditions are quite pathetic with frequent landslides especially during the monsoon season, but the scenic beauty of the place more than makes up for it. Enroute to Mokokchung, we stopped over at Wabang’s grandmother’s house who showered us with a warm welcome, tea and sweetmeats. She was smiling away and was so excited to see us. Her whole family was very friendly and opened their hearts to their guests. There was a framed picture in her living room that said ‘Behind every successful man stands a woman, telling him that he’s wrong!’. How true! ;)
She recited a little prayer for us in Nagamese before we set out again. The lush green hills and meadows were a fresh green and the breeze made for ideal travel weather! We stopped over at isolated roadside kiosks on the highway sometimes just a single one selling fresh fruits. The freshness, sweetness and fragrance of the papayas, pineapples and passion fruits still lie uncontested amongst these fruits that I’ve savoured everywhere in the country. 100% organic produce is a compulsion as farmers cannot afford fertilizers; a boon for consumers like me! We used to end up buying up the whole stock on our journeys and leave the fruit seller a happy man who would have made a little fortune for himself for the day.
There was this tiny but well maintained museum maintained by a lady which has a collection of all authentic Naga articles used by her ancestors and others. The museum houses the ‘World’s smallest Bible’ and exotic pieces of jewellery, shawls, utensils, spears, knives and tribal hunting gear amongst other curio. It is definitely worth a visit.
Temperatures dropped quite drastically during the night with rainfall and strong winds. Standing atop the balcony of my room at the Whispering Winds, I saw the whole town lit up on the hillsides and slowly after the clouds blew away, the stars quietly came out and shone brilliantly on the July night. I yearned to stay on but had to head out to Kohima the next day..
I had visited the Kohima world war cemetery when I was 4 but couldn’t make it that day as it was already closed by the time I headed there. It is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission is only the second war memorial of its kind in India. There’s a famous inscription on the War Memorial stone that reads:
When you go home
Tell them of us and say,
For your tomorrow, we gave our today.
I didn’t want to turn in too early though it was an early start for the next day so my friend Wabang took me for a late night city walk, spotting shooting stars. I had been lucky in Aizawl but that night it had rained and the city acquired a dreamy countenance with a lovely breeze and the fragrance of wet earth. Thus ended my sojourn with another awe-inspiring region of the country tucked away amongst the quiet hills- that play whispering winds and shadows in the day and soiree with the stars at night..